For The Love Of Layering

For The Love Of Layering

 

We live in a Country where weather is a huge topic of conversation, and so we all need an outfit that will work all day and night regardless of what is going on outside.  Temperature shifts like that call for layering… and I simply adore layering.

The big, fluffy sweaters atop a tight tank. The ripped jeans with patterned tights or fishnets underneath. The bomber jacket over a cropped sweatshirt. The T-shirt paired with a natural-waisted pair of boyfriend jeans, with ankles rolled up, showing off your colorful socks. You really can have fun with layering. I especially enjoy it because I love to keep clothes from prior seasons in my closet, and layering allows me to still wear as part of a layered ensemble what might otherwise be a bit too dated to wear on its own.

You can truly get creative with layering. Almost anything goes, and it can be ridiculously fun! That being said, here are my top five layering rules to remember:

Rule One: The Plot Thickens

Remember that layering adds thickness. If you don’t want to look like an overinflated balloon, be sure to layer thin fabrics underneath thicker ones. Also remember to make the thin layers more form fitting than the top layer. Finally, make sure that top layer has a little bit of breathing room, so you don’t see all the creases and everything else that can accumulate from all the layers underneath, no matter what shape you’re in.

“The Go-To”: A tank top and netted sweater under a long, flowy cardigan, with comfy jeans and ankle high boots. Toddler optional!

Rule Two: Your Bottom is the Tops

Generally speaking, if you do all your layering on your top half, then simplify your lower half with something slimming, like a skirt or trousers. You want people to be able to tell where you start and the layering begins, and vice versa. Simply put, going baggy on both top and bottom will make you look precisely like a potato sack. And an un-stylish potato sack, at that.

“The Classic”: A button-up under a loose sweater, with cuffs rolled up. Note the colorful socks peeking out below the rolled trouser hem!

 Rule Three: Mixing Business and Pleasure

Always mix textures. Always! Example: denim on the bottom; jersey tee, cotton sweater, leather jacket and silk scarf on the top. Get texture crazy. If you wear all of one fabric, you will come off a bit flat and washed out, or – worse yet – appear too matchy-matchy. Wearing all of one texture is to be avoided at all costs, because it will not only make you look drab, it will also add weight. Horror of horrors.

“The Autumn Dress”: A button-up covered by a thick cardigan with winter tights, and boots. Get that short dress out of the closet all year round!

Rule Four: The Long and the Short of It

Have a variety of lengths. You want to make sure your layers have complementing proportionate hemlines that are different from one another. In short, you want people to know you’re layering, as opposed to you just having gained three layers worth of weight. If you layer three tops over one another and they all end at the same length, instead of looking stylish, you will look stockier, boxier and heavier. Avoid.

“Hot Shorts”: They’re not just for summer anymore, especially when you layer with fun, patterned tights and fishnets. Never hurts to throw a scarf in with this ensemble!

Rule Five: Cut from the Same Cloth

Choose appropriate fabrics. For example, when layering a button up shirt under a sweater, make sure the button up is not too heavy, or every button, wrinkle and fold will show through to the top layer. Ew. If your top layer is thick like a cable knit, you can get away with almost anything underneath, but if it’s fine like merino wool, you’ll want a smooth, lightweight shirt underneath – something like a non-slubby silk (satin, crêpe) or lightweight cotton (Batiste, lawn, voile). After all, there’s a reason the saying goes “smooth as silk.”

“Hem-brace the Layers”: Have fun with hems by layering with different textures – lace, sequins, pom poms… whatever!

 Bonus Rule: Cute As A Button (Up)

Simple crew neck sweaters look great with a collared, button up shirt peeking through at the neck, with the cuffs folded up and the hem showing underneath. Make sure the shirt is not too short or too long under the sweater. Ideally, you’ll be able to see the natural split of the shirt at the bottom, but have the lowest button covered by the sweater. Fold the cuffs over the arm of the sweater to give it a cohesive look. Make sure your collar is crisp and don’t let it splay all over the place, or risk looking sloppy, which is a fashion crime. Keep it in place by buttoning it up to the top, or near the top. My favorite secret for layering button ups is to wear a fitted tank top over your button up and under your sweater to hide any visible bumps from seams and buttons. No one will see it, but you’ll look sleek.

“A Layered Approach”: Use thin, soft fabric to pile on the layers, and avoid the bulk. Here, I’ve got four layers on, but manage to still look sleek in the process!

 Personally, I love the effortless layered look of a netted sweater with a tank underneath, and either a cropped jacket or super long flowing cardigan on top, with jeans and ankle boots on the bottom. It’s a look that can work with lots of body types and is easy to throw together, plus is super warm and cozy.

Speaking of warmth, I find that when layering for the cold, merino wool works best. It’s much warmer than anything else out there, and isn’t bulky. It’s a bit pricier than other fabrics, but you can get away with having just one or two for the season, as it’s naturally anti-bacterial and wicks away moisture, so you don’t need to wash it as much as other articles of clothing.

“The Timeless”: A short jacket over a cropped sweater with a tank underneath. Try a metallic tank, instead of a boring basic!

 A Few Layering Combos To Ponder

  • Bring your summer dress into winter by adding an open button up (chambray), a thick cardigan (also open), winter tights and boots.
  • Wear shorts year-round by putting leggings under them. Top with knee high socks and boots for a cute bottom half. Pair on top with a fitted tank and an oversized sweater.
  • You can even layer multiple tights under shorts or a skirt by putting a patterned or shimmery pair under a netted pair. Don’t go overboard with this, or you won’t be able to bend your knees.
  • For a more fitted look, add a thin belt to a cardigan that’s been layered over a form fitting knit top.

The ideas for layering are endless, but keep to the rules above and you should be fine to get as creative as you want. Most importantly, commit to your look so it appears intentional. There’s nothing worse than layering that seems like you’re wearing whatever happened to be clean that day.

“Warm & Cozy”: Wear a turtleneck underneath a sweater, topped with a blazer. You can’t go wrong with this easy and comfy look!

Finally, don’t be afraid to mix and match patterns. There are rules on how to do this properly… but we’ll save that for another day.

 

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Strike a Pose – A Look at Yogic Philosophy

Strike a Pose – A Look at Yogic Philosophy

 

Millions of people around the world practice Yoga every day, and in the West (and increasingly in the East) this largely means they are following a regime of exercise, stretching and relaxation. This is great of course – physical health is very important. However, champions of “traditional” Yoga would say that Yoga can offer much more than flexibility and a figure for Spandex – they talk of the Big notions of liberation and enlightenment. Say what??!

It may come as a surprise, but Yoga is actually a spiritual tradition, which seeks to bestow happiness and inner freedom rather than health and flexibility on its practitioners. When most people speak about “Yoga” these days they are really referring to “asana” (yoga postures), which is only one component of a true Yoga practice. Perhaps disappointingly, the asanas may be considered the easy part of Yoga – but then again, the benefits bestowed by asana of health and fitness (while pretty good in themselves) are eclipsed by the benefits that can be gained by delving deeper into the practice of Yoga.

If tackling the Big notions appeals to you, read on….

The word Yoga in Sanskrit is often translated as “union”. This refers to the union of the human soul with the Supreme Spirit (or God, or Goddess or the Universe – whatever appeals to you and your personal belief system), to attain enlightenment. Enlightenment is the capacity to experience reality directly without the intervention and distortion of mental constructs.

Around 2000 years ago an Indian scholar named Patanjali wrote a text called the Yoga Sutras, which is widely considered to be the foundation of classical Yoga theory and practice. In this work, Patanjali investigates the mind, the way we normally use it, and the way we experience ourselves and the world. He explains that our minds do not see reality as it really is; instead we see reality through the projection of personal preference. This means that our thoughts fall into two main categories – “I like it” and “I don’t like it”. We filter every perception through our own polarity of attraction or avoidance.

The problem with this way of using our minds, is that it is the root cause of a great deal of suffering. It prevents us from seeing our true nature, as one with the universe. It takes a great deal of self-discipline to put this way of thinking aside and see reality objectively. Life becomes simpler, richer, and more “in the moment” when we opt for reality instead of projection.

Patanjali’s Yoga Sutras give us the tools to free ourselves from the compulsions of an ordinary mind, in the form of the Eight Limbs of Yoga. The Eight Limbs are set out in a numbered list because they are steps in a sequential path to elevated growth, like climbing a ladder. These Eight Limbs are:

  1. Yama (ethics)
  2. Niyama (clear mental state)
  3. Asana (postures – the one we know and love)
  4. Pranayama (conscious breathing)
  5. Pratyahara (mindful sense experience)
  6. Dharana (concentration – contemplation)
  7. Dhyana (still-mind meditation)
  8. Samadhi (understanding enlightenment)

 

Yamas are ethical principles that should be followed if we intend to connect with ourselves, the Universe and the Spirit. The five universal moral principles mentioned by Patanjali are non-violence, truth, non-stealing, self-control and non-coveting.

Niyamas are observances that help us move towards our goal of liberation. The aim is self-purification through discipline, but it is not about making oneself more virtuous than other people.

Asanas are postures to create physical wellness and eliminate restlessness, to help facilitate an undisturbed meditation. They are also used as a tool of self-discovery, in that they challenge you to confront yourself. Mastery of form is not the ultimate goal – don’t approach your mat with the aim of “getting” that difficult pose. Instead, during each pose try to find a place inside yourself where your whole being is awakened, where you allow and accept all feelings and emotions. The challenge is to avoid disempowering yourself by interacting with the mental noise in your head – those thoughts that you aren’t doing it right or aren’t strong enough to hold the pose. Allow the fears and feelings to arise and let them go, rather than resisting them. Accept totally what is and what is not. Drop all judgement, just simply acknowledge what is.

Pranayama is the rhythmic control of breathing. It is a meditative discipline, in that the aim is to achieve a stronger and more stable sense of self. It’s just an added bonus that it also strengthens the muscles of the respiratory system and reduces stress.

Pratyahara is sometimes described as a withdrawal of the mind from the senses, but it is more about not projecting our preferences onto the world, and not creating a world in our head that doesn’t exist in reality.  It creates a sense of inner tranquillity, which is an appropriate base for a meditation practice.

Dharana is training the mind in complete attention. It is also a recognition that objects are empty of the significance and structure that we think defines them.

Dhyana is still-mind meditation, which is not about visualisation or a pleasant relaxation. Rather, it is attempting to slow the thought waves of the mind to a stop – it is a very disciplined practice of “no thought”. With no thought, there is no notion of “me”. The constant activity of the mind must stop, for enlightenment to start.

Samadhi is a state of altered awareness that comes from the effort made in the previous seven areas. It is a state of unutterable peace and joy (sounds good, doesn’t it?) that is experienced when one’s individual consciousness is reunited with the One consciousness.

The Yoga Sutras are not religious doctrines and Yoga itself is not a religion. Although Yoga has long been associated with the three great religious-cultural traditions of Hinduism, Buddhism and Jainism, it is not necessary for a Yoga practitioner to believe in anything other than their own potential to transform themselves and transcend the ego. Yoga can put us in touch with our spiritual core and be used to deepen whatever personal faith we have, if we so wish.

I hope that next time you are on your mat, you might approach your practice with some of this information in mind. If this is all new for you and it has sparked an interest in the traditional moorings of Yoga, I highly recommend reading any of the vast number of translations and commentaries that are available on Patanjali’s Yoga Sutras. I great one that I can recommend is “True Yoga” by Jennie Lee, which I picked up from Watkins Books in London last time I was there, or anything by Georg Feuerstein, a huge proponent of traditional Yoga.

Namaste!

 

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SILHOUETTE OF A ROVING ARTIST

SILHOUETTE OF A ROVING ARTIST

 

The quirky and delightful Charles Burns and Michael Herbert, may look as if they have just stepped out of a Dickens novel, but their sheer genius and ability to entertain adds value and variety to any special day, and can be booked for Weddings, Bar Mitzvahs or any other special celebration or event.

We recently enjoyed the two artists at our Glotime.tv celebrity lunch in December and the guests all enjoyed the delightful pair and told us it added so much to the day.

These two specialist artists have this to say about their own art form.

‘The art of cutting profile portraits with scissors is an old English craft with a fascinating history. It died out in Victorian times – after the invention of photography – and today is almost totally unknown.

Yet silhouette cutting still has much to offer. In today’s world, where technology is all, there is something captivating about such a simple art. All a silhouettist needs is paper, scissors and a quirky skill. Driven by a belief in the future of his art, Charles Burns – The Roving Artist – has taken this lost craft and re-invented it for the twenty-first century. Teaming up with fellow silhouettists, Michael Herbert and others, he has created a flexible team of artists working at events all over the UK and abroad.

The artists combine traditional skill with modern, stylish presentation. Whether you need a single silhouette cutter for a wedding, or a team of artists to make 500 silhouettes at a gala dinner, The Roving Artist can provide.

“Must a silhouette always be in profile? What happens if you cut me face
on?”

For years, like most silhouette artists, I tended to avoid these questions.

“It won’t look like you” I’d say, “all you’ll get is a round shape with
two ears sticking out!”

This is true. My fellow American silhouettists refer to such cuttings,
rather disparagingly, as “lollipops”.  For people with long hair,
covering their ears and neck, the prospect is even more uncertain.  One
may as well cut out a sack of potatoes!

Generations of silhouette artists have always cut their portraits in
profile. Looking through my collection of antique silhouettes, I’ve
never seen one not in profile. To a silhouettist, this feels “just the
way things are”. There’s something about the human profile which allows
us to bring out the likeness; nothing else really works.

Nevertheless, graphic designers use silhouettes very differently. From
the iconic iPod adverts of the 2000s to ubiquitous corporate clip art,
silhouettes are seen in a wide variety of poses and from many points of
view. Some years ago, being me, I began to ask: “could a silhouettist
work this way too?”

Working at events offers me some wonderful freedoms. You may have heard
me say that my studio is wherever I happen to be that day. I’m fond of
saying it! You see, when a question like this pops us, I’m free
to experiment. Nobody really minds if one or two silhouettes go wrong,
it just becomes part of the fun. So, one Christmas season, I decided
that next time somebody asked “what happens if you cut me face on?” I
would give it a go.

As predicted, I quickly ran into problems. Graphic designers have time
on their side. They can draw out their designs and spend time refining
and correcting them. I literally just cut and hope! My most successful
cuttings were bald men with white shirts. By cutting in the collar and
tie I discovered I could create the shape of the head, and — yes, to my
surprise — there was a likeness there. Attractive young women with long
hair, on the other hand, really did come out like a sack of potatoes!

I decided to put the project on the back burner.

Then, last October I was booked to create reportage silhouettes during
an interview in Ghent, Belgium. Reportage is when I cut silhouettes to
illustrate a meeting or event — in this case for a magazine
article — rather than to provide entertainment. The interviewee was a
famous Belgian tax inspector, well known for his black-and-white views
on tax law (hence the silhouette theme). The interview was scheduled to
last for 40 minutes.  I began by creating silhouettes of
both interviewer and interviewee, and then went on to create some scenes
in profile. These included the table, books, and cups of coffee between
them. This was quite complex and (for me) time-consuming work with a lot
of detail and some preliminary sketching required. Once my work was done
it became apparent that the interview was going to overrun.
It occurred to me I could use the extra time to experiment with head-on
silhouettes. I created a few of these, freehand, quite fast.

Sifting through the cuttings afterwards it became clear — as is so often
the case — that I’d done my best work in the closing minutes of the
interview. By then I was working at high speed and was not really
thinking about what I was doing. I was just playing! One of these
cuttings became a full-page spread in the magazine. The interviewer has
his back to us, while the tax collector is silhouetted face on. A large
area of black paper became a backdrop for text in white. The
commissioning editor was really enthusiastic about this cutting; he felt
I had discovered a truly French, comic-book style!

After the experience, I realised that reportage may be a way forward.
Eager to explore the style further, I decided to seek the input of some
other silhouettists. So, just over a week ago, I hosted a not-in-profile
Burns Night party.

Being a Burns, Burns Night has become a big thing in my life. Every year
I invite those silhouettists I work with regularly, plus a few other
artistic friends, to a dinner in Mays Barn (my studio in Emmer Green).
My idea is some sort of post-Xmas / Burns night / Roving-Artist company
party. We don’t really follow the Burns-night protocol (apart from me
getting to slice a haggis in half with a sword!) Each year, I pose to
the assembled artists a different artistic question. Last week, I asked
them to bring their scissors, so we could explore these not-in-profile
profiles together.

 

What of the future? As entertainment — although it really amused a
troupe of silhouettists – I’m not sure the idea works. The results are
just too uncertain. As illustration or reportage, however, it certainly
does. I really enjoy reportage work, and would love to do more of it.

 

You can find more information and how to book at http://www.roving-artist.com/

Download PDF Document here: roving_artist-publicity

 

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