When in Rome, Do as the World Eater Does

When in Rome, Do as the World Eater Does

 

Ah, Italy. Land of pizza, pasta, espresso and more. Such a wondrous country. And at the epicenter of it all, Rome. The Eternal City. What a glorious place to visit. It is indeed a magical land, transporting you back thousands of years no matter where you venture. I firmly believe that Rome is a place everyone should visit at least once in their lives.

With all the history on display, visitors flock to Rome in droves, which makes it a tourist mecca… which means much of it is also a tourist trap. And nowhere is that more apparent than at it’s thousands of eating establishments, which all seem specifically designed to draw in sightseers and out-of-towners with the promise of a delicious, classic, Italian meal, but rarely deliver. Which brings up an interesting problem. Where should one eat?

Romans love holding onto their classic culture – and history in general – more than other place I’ve ever visited. This is wonderful in regards to preserving culture, heritage, history, art… but tends to stymie progress in the food and coffee world. Let’s consider what the phrase “classic” means when it comes to a meal.

Many Roman restaurants claim recipes handed down from generation to generation. This may very well be true, and Grandma’s recipes might have included the best ingredients possible… when she was alive. Remember, there was once a time that food was, by default, natural, organic and whole, as opposed to pre-packaged, chemically processed, mass-produced, and littered with chemical pesticides, chemical additives and preservatives. Let’s assume that Grandma’s recipes really did hail from 200 years ago, as opposed to from the 1950s, when frozen, canned and microwave meals were standard in every kitchen, and it wasn’t yet known how bad these foods were for you. Going with a best case scenario, Grandma’s recipe might have called for tomatoes, which she grew in her garden, and chicken, which came from the family farm. This sounds great, but that easily could have evolved into a mass-produced, GMO, subpar-tasting, mealy tomato and a water-and-antibiotics-injected, washed-in-chlorine, mass-poultry-farm chicken. Technically, still the same ingredients, but eons away in terms of taste and health benefits.

Bottom line is that, in today’s world of artificial foods, toxins, chemicals, additives, carcinogens, hormones, medicines and a whole other plethora of unappetizing ingredients added to our foods, sourcing good quality ingredients is the first step to a good restaurant. Unfortunately, I find that unless you’re paying a Michelin Star-level premium for your meal while in Italy, many Roman restaurants – even if they are sticking to the spirit of generational recipes – serve subpar quality ingredients, resulting in a subpar outcome, no matter how talented Grandma was.

Add to that, an alarming lack of consistency, some truly cranky service and crazily expensive food, it’s as if the Roman restaurant industry realized that since Rome is like Disneyland – non-stop tourists and no down season – they are unlikely to have a lot of repeat customers, so there’s no reason to worry about winning anyone over long term. And while I get how frustrating it can be to kowtow to ungrateful interlopers regularly, I don’t care! When I eat out, I want good food, good service, and – of course – a good price!

That’s why I was so happy when I finally discovered the best place to eat in Rome, which I ended up visiting numerous times:

Mercato Centrale Roma

 

Thank goodness for you! Located in the Stazione Termini (Rome’s main train terminal), the market is home to a wide variety of high quality food vendors, a wine bar, a coffee shop and a restaurant. Fairly new, having opened in October 2016, the Mercato took over the Cappa Mazzoniana, a century-old hall built by architect Angiolo Mazzoni, initially intended for use as the station’s restaurant, which never happened (until now). The thing that sets the Mercato apart from the other eateries in Rome is that they went out and sourced the best of the best in terms of local chefs, so you don’t have to. They did the research and you reap the benefits.

Whatever you might be in the mood for exists at the Mercato. Meat? Pizza? Gelato? You name it, you got it. They’ve got a pretty good system down, too. Sit at a communal table and a server takes your drink order. Then choose from one of the many stalls and eat to your heart’s content. Start with a glass of wine and an antipasti of cured meats and cheeses, move on to a pasta, have fish for a main, finish with a ristretto and something sweet. Each from a different vendor, specializing in a specific thing.

On this last trip to Rome, I frequented the Mercato a handful of times. I was over the moon about finding some enjoyable espresso there (something, surprisingly, very hard to come by in Rome), but it was the truffle stall (Il Tartufo di Luciano Savini, aka Savini Tartufi) that won my heart. We tried two different truffle pastas there, and they were, without a doubt, the best pastas we ate in Rome.

My favorite was the Gricia al Tartufo Nero. It starts with a calamaretti, which is a short, wide pasta tube, visually reminiscent of calamari, that collapses when cooked, trapping the sauce within (!). It’s coupled with bacon, a drop of milk, extra virgin olive oil and Pecorino Romano cheese, and then finished with a generous heaping of freshly grated black truffles. The sauce perfectly melds with the fresh pasta, and each bite is a reminder of all that is good in this world. I’d never had a pasta so delightful, perfectly cooked to the desired al dente consistency. Their Tagliolino al Tartufo was excellent as well, using a tagliatelle pasta in an egg/Pecorino Romano/extra virgin olive oil sauce. Both pastas were in the €15-20 range. That may seem expensive, but – to put Roman food prices into perspective – we went to a busy, casual osteria not at the market and ordered their truffle pasta. It didn’t even come close in taste or quality to the Mercato’s truffle stall, and it cost a hefty €37, nearly double the price.

The next time we visited the Mercato, we had the Trapizzini, a triangular shaped pizza bianca (pizza dough) stuffed to the point of overflowing with traditional Roman fillings. They recommended as a first timer trying the braised beef (their #1 best-seller), but, not being in the mood for red meat, I opted for the pollo alla cacciatora. Wow. It was a winner. The chicken was juicy, flavorful and so well cooked that it fell apart easily. It was cooked in garlic and white wine, and mixed beautifully with the crispy-on-the-outside, soft-on-the-inside pizza dough surrounding it. My only regret is being too full to try another one.

At the Mercato, you shouldn’t miss out on something sweet. I opted for a tiramisu from Cremilla. Even though they’re known for their gelato, I couldn’t resist the look of this fluffy, velvety, coffee-tinged dessert. Sure enough, it was smooth, subtle, creamy and exactly what eating a tiramisu in Italy should be like.

Paired with an espresso from La Caffeteria (one of the few espressos in Rome I didn’t have to cringe to ingest, nor add sugar to), my meal was complete.

All in all, come to the Mercato to enjoy the hustle and bustle around you, and take in the smells of all the fantastic foods. Have a sit down meal at Michelin-starred chef Oliver Glowig’s restaurant on the second floor, enjoy a casual plate of lovely pasta at one of the many booths on the ground floor, or go really chill and simply grab a beer and a slice of pizza to go. Indulge in fried foods or sweets, chocolate and cakes. You can even buy some fresh produce on your way home. The market really does have it all, and they do an excellent job executing.


  

 

 

 

 

I tried a plethora of items and was pleased with them all. Mercato Centrale definitely offers a great choice for a variety of typical Roman foods (and more) at a good price. And you can trust the sourcing, because the vendors come highly curated.

 

 

 

 

 

In other words, when in Rome, do as the World Eater does, and eat at the Mercato Centrale at Termini I. Buon appetito!

 

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Emily’s Fashion Hack – SCARF SEASON – THE ULTIMATE STYLE TWISTER

Emily’s Fashion Hack – SCARF SEASON – THE ULTIMATE STYLE TWISTER

How wonderful it is to be in the midst of the season for scarves (as if there’s only one season… but we’ll get to that)!

I recently made a major house move, so had to go through my closet to reorganize my clothes. I had a hard time making decisions on what to throw out, as I’m still working on losing those last 15 pounds of baby weight – (eek – baby is actually 18 months old)! As a result, I ended up bagging and boxing some items, and putting them in storage for when I do shed those last couple of inches around my middle.

Having said that, I’ve actually come to terms with my new curves and I’ve purchased a few new wares in my lovely, current, baby hip-holding size, and (luckily) a good portion of my tops fit me once again. Being a designer and a fashion lover, I have actually figured out a way for my new wares to stand up to the wardrobe I had pre-baby.

I’ve never been the person who buys a new wardrobe every year and donates last season’s garbs to charity.   I’m actually someone who shops for items here and there, buying a garment when I fall in love with it, or when I have an occasion and need something new.

I tend to keep my clothes and wear them for years, restyling them as the seasons and the trends change. Some items I have had long enough to see them go out of style and then come back into fashion.

I’m also a huge advocate of layering – probably because I hail from New York, a place with a harsh winter and four full, glorious seasons.

Why toss that glittery, gold tank top from your college clubbing days away when you can layer it under a classy, fuzzy ivory cashmere sweater and get a peek of shimmer at the waist and at the shoulder straps?

But I digress, as this article is supposed to be about scarves, and I am just preparing you for the other topics in my series, so watch this space because there is a lot more to come.

So back to the scarves. As I embark on another autumn/winter with this new limited wardrobe at my disposal, I am faced with the eternal question… how do I liven up my closet without spending a fortune? Luckily for me, I’ve accumulated quite a collection of scarves in my time. Scarves are a true wardrobe workhorse. They’re the ultimate article of clothing that should stay put in your wardrobe.

They do not have to be replaced during pregnancy, and though the chillier months are known to be “scarf season,” they actually have such versatility that you can use them as a lifesaving accessory all year long.

Keep your hair up and out of your face in summer with a light silk scarf. Channel your inner Audrey Hepburn and cover your head in the storms of spring. In colder autumn and winter days, you can wear them in the usual way, around your neck for warmth, but there are endless ways to wear a scarf that can liven up any outfit, any time of year. And you can wear them anywhere you please, as well! Use scarves as a necklace, as a hair band or tie. As a bracelet, a belt, a head cover, a shawl. Tie one around the hips to accentuate a skirt. Even when worn traditionally around your neck, there are countless methods of securing them. Their uses are endless, as are their abilities to transform an outfit. The scarf truly does take a drab, boring look and make it exciting. You can add a pop of color to an otherwise monochromatic look. Bring in a pattern to offset solids, or – if you’re daring enough – mix and match different patterns by adding a wild scarf. Wear a scarf up by donning a fine-fabric one with beaded embellishments, or wear it down by using a well-loved cotton voile paired with jeans.

What I’m trying to say is simply this: Move your scarves to the front of your closet. Mix and match them. Wear them in whatever way strikes your fancy. Expand the options that exist for you without shopping for whole new outfits. Get creative with your wardrobe, and have fun while doing it. I know I will! Now, if you’ll excuse me, I’m going to go dive into a big pile of scarves…

French Knot: my favorite.

This is a classy, beautiful and timeless look that never goes out of style.


1.Take a long scarf and fold it in half lengthwise


2.Drape it around your neck so loop and ends are at your front


3.Take one part of the loose end and put it through the loop, over one side and under the other.


4.Take the other loose end and put it through the loop in the other direction – under the one side and over the other, then adjust to desired tightness and length.

The Belted Scarf: a wonderful way to show off your favorite scarf.

I love it now, in my current post-baby state because some of my tops still fit a little snug, but not enough to retire, so wearing a scarf in this way hides some of those unwanted creases and bulges (no need for that shaper underwear here)!


1.Start with a long light to medium weight scarf that has a fringed edge


2.Drape over shoulders, and adjust length so both edges are even


3.Take a belt and secure at the natural waistline


4.Tug scarf to tighten beneath the belt

The V-Neck Front Knot: if a cowgirl went to Paris this is what she’d come away with.
A chic and fun way to wear a scarf that also keeps you warm.


1. Take a medium to large square silk scarf and fold in half diagonally, to form a triangle


2. Wrap it around your neck with the fold at your chin and the tip of the triangle pointing down


3. Take the other two corners around your neck and bring back around to your front


4. Tie the two corners in a double knot slightly to one side, then fluff for desired fullness

The Infinity Necklace: a flirty, fun and oh-so-easy look.
This may be the scarf combination I get the most compliments on. Simple, different and playful.


1. Take a medium to long rectangle scarf and tie the ends together


2. Put it over your head with the knot at the back of your neck


3. Loop the scarf around your neck again


4. Leaving the knot at the back of your neck, adjust one part to be tight, like a choker (but not too tight!) and the other part loose, like a long necklace

Stay tuned for more of Emily’s Fashion Hacks on GloTIME.tv

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More Adventures of the Road – The Netherlands

More Adventures of the Road – The Netherlands

 

One of the most remarkable things that we experienced in the Netherlands was, in our entire time driving around the country, that the Dutch know how to drive. I don’t mean they know how to steer. I mean they understand the logical courtesy rules of the road. Maybe better than any other country we’ve visited (and that’s a lot!). In nearly a month, we only heard three people honk their horns, and all were deserved. We also only heard one group of motorcycles revving their overly loud engines, and it felt out of place (and was likely tourists, if I’m being honest). Drivers understood how to use lanes! This may seem like it’s no big deal, but it was huge. They would use the left lane for overtaking only, then return to the right lane to continue driving, leaving the passing lane empty. Traffic was never too congested, probably because of all the bicycles on the road. I’ve never seen such orderly roundabouts. I didn’t fear for my life in the car like I do in Bulgaria, London, Israel, Taiwan and even parts of America. I normally make my husband drive everywhere. Here, I was fine behind the wheel.

People, in general, are courteous in The Netherlands, yet rarely feel fake. Customer service is good, and of a high standard. I loved watching all the cyclists on their daily commutes, riding by with bemused smiles on their faces. I called it their “Mona Lisa” smiles. Especially on sunny days, which we experienced a lot. The entire country is manicured and well looked after, with gorgeous flowers, green grass and healthy, happy animals. I’ve never seen such happy cows grazing (or dozing!) on the sides of roads! The farm animals and zoo animals all had bright eyes, full of life. It was invigorating to see nature and man live in such harmony.

Maintaining a healthy lifestyle is common there, from their cycling to their food, and down to their desire to live with minimal environmental impact. Everyone recycled. It was not uncommon to see houses with solar panels on the rooftops, no matter what economic class the neighborhood was in.

Now, be aware of a few things you should know. The Dutch don’t use credit cards like a lot of other places do, especially America. In fact, outside of touristy areas, it was very difficult (nearly impossible) to find a place that would take a credit card, regardless of whether it was Visa, MasterCard or American Express. They take their Dutch bank issued debit cards, or cash. We even encountered some places that didn’t even take cash – only the local debit cards! So do beware of that. I suppose for the Dutch people, this is a good thing, as it means they are not swimming in debt like many others are. But for the traveler who wants to go off the beaten path, it does make for quite a challenge.

Also, be aware that the cyclists rule the road. I’m not sure who legally has the right of way, but the cyclists take it, over automobiles and pedestrians, both. That was a bit frustrating when pushing a toddler around, but we quickly got used to it and learned how to assert our pedestrian rights when necessary. Another thing to watch out for is that trams pull up quickly at their stops, often without any curbs or “shoulders” (and normally silently). For foreigners, it can be shocking. Some other European countries have a similar system, but this was the first that made me feel like I had to really be paying attention or risk getting hit. In fact, I think every American I know has almost gotten hit by a tram their first time in Amsterdam. I’m honestly surprised we don’t read about American tourist tram accidents more often. Watch for that.

On top of all this, as an American, my mind was blown more than once by the realization that so much of what we think of as American is actually Dutch. I think of America as having its roots more in England than anywhere else, and I didn’t really think of the fact that the Dutch were in the States first. I knew that New York was once New Amsterdam, but I didn’t realize that Harlem, Brooklyn, Bushwick, the Bronx, Bowery, Gramercy Park, Wall Street, and so many other places were named after places in The Netherlands (as well as the concept of sitting on a stoop, which is a New York staple!). It never occurred to me that our beloved Hollandaise sauce on delicious eggs benedict actually originated as a Dutch sauce (duh – HOLLAND-aise!). I had more than a few instances where I stopped in my tracks and said, “wait a minute – this came from here?!” A few examples: bowling, pancakes, cookies, ice skating, compact discs, cassette tapes, WiFi, Bluetooth, the atlas, telescopes, microscopes… and orange carrots. Yes. You read that last one right. In fact, they’re orange as a nod to King William III, aka William of Orange, who was a key player in getting the Netherlands their independence. I guess we should be glad he wasn’t William of Dark Brown With Weird Mustard Colored Spots.

All in all, we had a tremendous time visiting this under-appreciated gem. We can’t wait for our next visit.

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